Relaxing at Kilauea Point, along the North Shore

     Anyone who has ever traveled with me knows I'm all about seeing and experiencing as much as I can.  This best way to execute this is to plan ahead.  This includes planning on "relaxing" time on the beach.  So after our helicopter ride our afternoon and evening consisted of Kilauea National Wildlife Refuge and relaxing on a semi-secluded beach in Princeville while we watch the sunset.

Tropic Birds dot the landscape.

Nene Geese

     The Kilauea Lighthouse can be found on a narrow peninsula at the most northern tip of Kauai.  This area, known as the Kilauea National Wildlife Refuge, is home to thousands of native Hawaiian birds as well as nesting grounds for the endangered Hawaiian bird, the Nene.  The view was spectacular--wide open waters and thousands of white birds speckled the landscape.  The information boards were helpful in my attempts of identifying the differences between red-footed boobies and tropic birds.  Depending on the time of year, I'm told you can observe monk seals basking on the rocks or the humpback whales migrating.  With Matt's keen eye and help of the free binoculars along the fence, we did get too see a dancing display of Spinner Dolphins and the occasional sea turtle poking its head out.  If you see a boat lazing about in open water, it's usually a good sign that there may be dolphins nearby.

    The lighthouse itself is going through renovations.  It's a cute little white lighthouse.  Maybe when the renovations are down, they would allow people inside and up.  But back in its heyday, Kilauea Lighthouse was a pivotal navigation aid for sailors traveling to the Orient.  The lighthouse is even referenced briefly in Lilo & Stitch and more so in the squeal!  Which makes me want to re-watch Lilo & Stitch!

     Before we headed out to watch the sunrise on the beach, we grabbed an early dinner/snack at the Pau Hana Pizza (Kilauea Bakery).  The pizza here is to die for!  We went for the standard Big Meat Combo, but it was better than any ordinary meat combo.  The flavors and the sauce were perfectly spiced.  The pizza dough, soft and slightly chewy, but crispy on the edges.  Definitely one of the best tasting pizza I've ever had.  All satiated, we headed out to catch the sunset on a small private beach in Princeville.

Flying High Above Paradise

Jurassic Falls

     Honeymooning on a tropical island paradise is nothing short of magical.  Kauai maintains much of its natural landscape with no building taller than the tallest coconut tree and only 30% of the island is accessible by car.  So what better way to enjoy the lush forests, the old mountain scape and the roaring waterfalls than by air with a helicopter ride.  We decided on Jack Harter Helicopters because it is one of the few companies that offers doorless helicopter rides.  Yes, you heard right... no doors.  Best for pictures!

     Armed with our cameras, DSLR and a point & shoot, Matt and I headed out for our 60-min helicopter tour.  The company weighs the parties and tries to evenly distribute the weight within the chopper.  After a quick, but informative lesson on the parachute and chopper safety, we boarded the van that took us to the helicopter landing pad.  There was four people and the pilot in our chopper.  I liked that Matt and I were in front it was easy to see more at different angles.

     Chris was our pilot and tour guide.  He took his time flying around and turning the plane so everyone in the craft could get a good view.  We all had headphones and 2-way intercoms to listen to Chris's narration and have our questions answered during the flight.  Personally, I was just in awe of the view and vastness of the cliffs.  If pictures could say a thousand words... here's some to take your breath away:

Waimea Canyon

The Cathedrals of Na Pali Cliffs

Hanalei Bay

To give you an idea of how massive these landscapes are, click on the above left picture of the open roof cave.  Look for the red kayaker at the entrance of the cave.

Wailua Falls in Kauai

Time to Get Dirty!

     One activity Matt was dying to do was go on an ATV tour.  We decided on booking with Kauai ATV for a couple reasons--it was a recommended tour group through Wyndham Resorts with the best discounted rate and they provide clothing to put over your personal cloths so you don't need to worry about getting your clothes stained and dirty from the red dirt.  When I was booking the tour, I was silly enough to ask, "there's a chance of rain on Wednesday, would the tour be cancelled?"  The lady laughed and said tours aren't hindered by rain.  We like the mud.  So I booked us for a 2-person Mud Bug.  Although it wasn't an ATV, I don't think Matt minded.  He just wanted to get me dirty!  And from the looks of it, the bugs (Mud bug or Ohana bug) are both much lower to the ground than the ATV's and are easier to get dirty.

Heading off in our Mud Bug

     We geared up early in the morning and headed out for our tour, the Waterfall Mauka Tour.  We gathered up our goggles and clothes--cargo camo pants and a Kauai ATV t-shirt.  Don't worry, they will fit over your clothes because we were swimming in ours.  A rope was used as a belt to keep everything up.  Didn't really matter to me, as long as my personal clothes stay relatively clean.  We also purchased bandanas from the store at check in ($2 ea) to protect our mouths from on coming dirt and debris, which is a good plan if you are in one of the bugs.  Our tour consisted of 6 ATV's, 3 Mud Bugs and 2 tour guides.  One of the guides had a camera to take pictures of our journey, but I came well prepared.  My little Olympus point and shoot was dressed in its generic underwater casing with its lens well protected from the mud to come.  First, they took us on a short loop track so the group could get used to their vehicles.  Surprisingly, Matt let me drive the first leg of the trip to the private waterfalls where we had lunch.  You would think Matt's more Asian then me by how quick the camera shutters kept going!  You could tell how bumpy parts of the ride was by how blurry the pictures were, but there were some good shots too.

Wilcox Tunnel

      Once around the short loop, they opened the yellow gates and we were on our way.  First, we drove past the old Sugar Mill Plantation to a 1/2 mile tunnel.  We stopped briefly to chat about the tunnel and the history of the plantation we were driving through.  The funniest part was that Matt had trouble getting out of his seat belt.  He was trying so hard that his face turned red and looked like the veins in his arms were going to pop!  It gets better... Both of our tour guides had to come over and help him... to the point where they had to lubricate him.. uh the seatbelt... with white cream, otherwise known as sunblock.  Finally, he was free!  We had a good laugh, especially with all the innuendos flying around.  ha ha ha!

     Back on the road, we flipped on our head lights to make our way through the tunnel.   While we were at the tunnel pit stop, there was a passing shower, which means mud puddles!  The road took us into more of the jungle with some muddy turns.  I drove through some muddy puddles and Matt tried to capture a picture of the mud splashing.  It was so much fun splashing mud on Matt's side. heehee. 

      After about an hour drive, we arrived at our picnic location, a waterfall swimming hole.  We got to swim and take pictures at the falls while lunch was getting ready.  There was even a spot that was deep enough for you to jump into off a small ledge.  The water was cold, but refreshing.  Lunch consisted of sandwiches, chips, cookies and variety of soda/juices.  Pretty good overall and filling.
     We got back into our bug and it was Matt's turn to drive.  A short ways down, we stopped off at another waterfall for more pictures.  We each took our turn and I sat down with Matt standing next to me waiting to have our picture taken.  "Aaah!"  A piercing scream rang through the jungle.  Matt tried to push me in!  Thankfully, he also tried to catch me, too.  And the tour guide caught it all on film. What a brat!!
     The rest of the way back Matt made sure NOT to avoid any mud puddles.  In fact, he gunned for them as much as he could.  We both got covered, including our goggles.  We were so muddy to the point Matt had to wipe off one side of the goggles just so he could see the rest of the way home.  lol... it was so much fun.  We would highly recommend touring with Kauai ATV and getting down right dirty! ;)

Who won?  Us or the dirt?

Relaxing Activities in Princeville...

     After a long rigorous hike on the Kalalau Trail yesterday, we took the passing rain showers throughout the day as a sign to relax.  So what did we do?  We signed up for some arts & craft through our Wyndham Resort and made an appointment for a couples massage.  Oh yea, and we sat in on a timeshare spiel to get some added 30% discounts on excursions with the Aloha Privileges Card (APC).
     Art and crafting has always been my thing.  Not saying that I'm the best at it, but I definitely have the passion for it.  Matt, on the other hand, is a good sport and will indulge my interests.  Cheers to man who knows how to keep his wife happy!  So we both signed up for the Ti Leaf Lei Making and the Coconut Basket Weaving class.  The teacher, Eugene, was the concierge that we worked with at the resort and with his personality alone, I knew it was going to be a fun class.  Too bad it started at 8am!

Ti Leaf Plant - Used for hulas, leis, food wrapping, roofs, you name it!

Matt working hard at his Ti Leaf Lei

      We showed up at the Wyndham Shearwater Clubhouse bright and early.  They've got a nice pool behind the Clubhouse that overlooks the ocean.  As it turns out, Matt and I were the only ones who woke up early enough to attend the Ti Leaf Making session.  So after Eugene made coffee, the two of us were ready to put our artistic skills to test.  First, Eugene dried the Ti leaves and microwaved them for 10-15s.  This helps to soften the leaves and make it flexible.  After wiping away any sap, he showed up how to strip them down the main vein to get 2 halves.  The mechanics of it was easy enough.  Twist two individual halves and then twist them together, one step at a time.  It keeps it from unwinding.  And you keep adding leaves on each side until the Ti leaf rope is long enough.  We added a shell lei and some fresh flowers for color.  Eugene told us that him and his family had made hundreds of these for a wedding favor and sometimes he'll sell them as a fundraiser.  Pretty cool, huh?  We were told that putting them in the fridge occasionally as it dries helps it to main its color.

Ti Leaf Lei made by Matt

Our teacher, Eugene

     The next class was the Coconut Basket Weaving, where another boy joined us.  Working with coconut leaves proved to be more challenging.  The key was to work with the leaves and be very careful not to break the rib while you are weaving.  Eugene would once again demonstrate a portion and then have us make our baskets.  Every so often I would stop and snap few shots of Matt weaving.  I also decided that the basket would make a very nice hat, almost like a military helmet!  Once completed, Eugene took some extra Ti leaves and made roses to decorate our baskets.  Turned out very nice!  We were very proud of our accomplishments this morning.
 

Kauai Beach Resort

      After the timeshare spiel, we head out towards Lihue for our couples massage appointment with the Hawaiian Rainforest Spa at the Kauai Beach Resort.  We had decided on a 50-minute Lomi Lomi Massage.  They say it's a Hawaiian technique that uses continuous flowing motion and the forearm to massage and bring your body back into balance.  They started with some lavender aromatherapy and then from there I'm not sure what happened!  Either way I came out very peaceful and relaxed.  Compared to Matt's rigorous pre-wedding massage beating in NYC Chinatown, I think I prefer the Hawaiian way much better.

 

Coconut Basket made helmet

      After the Ti Leaf class, Eugene had told us other uses the Hawaiians used the Ti Leaf, including for cooking.  Then in 2 secs flat he whip the leaves together to make the following package.  Traditionally, it is a dish called "LauLau," where roast pork wrapped in Ti leaf and  slow cooked in an "Imu," or underground oven.

Na Pali Coast & the Kalalau Trail

    The Kalalau Trail is a strenuous 11-mile hike along the Na Pali coast with steep climbs, narrow paths and multiple switchbacks.  This trail is the only land access to see the amazing views of the Na Pali coast--velvet green cliffs, cascading waterfalls and lush valleys.  In fact, Na Pali means "The Cliffs", and while it's one of the fastest eroding places on the Earth, it is also a place that has mostly been left untouched by man.

       By no means did we hike all 11-miles.  For one, those who do so need to get a permit and often hike in and camp overnight before making the 11-mile trek back out.  And no, the Kalalau Trail does not connect to roads on the western side of Kauai.  We did hike the 2-miles to Hanakapi'ai Beach from Ke'e Beach, which has steep climbs that are still rewarded with beautiful views of the Na Pali coast.  This is the portion that many people hike along the North Shore.  Then, we hiked 2-miles in to see the majestic Hanakapi'ai Falls, named after a Menehune Princess. 
     Entrance to the Kalalau trail is only from Ke'e Beach (end of Highway 50).  Parking can be difficult and people end up making parking wherever you can.  Be mindful of the "No Parking" signs though... as we got a parking ticket 30-mins before we got back.  Do'h!

Wild Spearmint Smells

     Upon entering from Ke'e Beach we were warned by the following sign.  "Falling rocks and steep drop off along cliffside trail from here to Kalalau."  Whoa!  But at the same time, that is the beauty of the Na Pali coast... the cliffs.  The path from Ke'e to the beach (first 2-miles) was well maintained.  You can easily fit foot traffic going in each direction if you're careful.  The climb is strenuous because of the steep hike up and semi-rocky terrain.  You are rewarded, however, with a beautiful view of the Na Pali coast within the first 1/2-mile.  Breathtaking!

Na Pali Coastline @ about 3/4-mile hike.

As you continue climbing up, you come to another open lookout of the coastline.  This lookout can get extremely windy, so hold on to your hats!  You can see Ke'e Beach, where you started, look out into the vast Pacific Ocean (and so blue!), the expansive coral reef dotted along the coast below, and of course, the majestic Na Pali cliffs in front.  Besides the coastal view, you also hike into the valley jungles.  The smells along the path is so relaxing... spearmint!  I love nature!  Finally, you start heading back down the mountain towards the beach.  We had left in the late morning, so we past people hiking back.  They were out of breath and reminded us to save some energy for the hike back.

Coral reefs below

View of Ke'e Beach

View of Hanakapi'ai Beach

     To get to the beach, you come to your first stream crossing.  No rocks to hop across, so off come the socks and shoes and into the stream we go.  That day, the stream was flowing nicely and up to our knees.  It was quite refreshing.  But sometimes the currents can be very strong during times of heavy rain, so be careful.  While we were crossing, we got a passing light tropical rain.  Once on the other side, I realized we left our walking sticks on the other bank.  Naturally, I wade back through stream for them and Matt took pictures.  The rain sprinkling past quickly and we were able to sit on large rocks near the beach, looking out to the ocean for lunch.  Just watch out for the few feral cats eying your food.  We had to move once to keep them away. (this leg of the trip took us about 1hr & 45 mins w/ a quick lunch break).

Hanakapi'ai Beach (notice the sea caves in the cliffs)

     After half our sandwich, which we got a the local supermarket in Princeville, we headed out towards Hanakapi'ai Falls, another 2-mile hike.  Shortly into the hike we were greeted with a small clearing surrounded by circles of bamboo, the kind good for building shelter.  In the midst of one of the circles, the bamboo was cleared away and you could see remnants of a campfire.  Continuing a little further, the path gets narrow and very muddy when wet.  At first we tried our best to avoid the muddy spots, but after awhile,  it was near pointless.  Just watch your step, especially when there's people coming from the other direction.  There are many areas where you can not cross simultaneously.
     One of the tough parts of this trail is the stream crossings.  We stopped and took off our shoes every time.  In one of them, Matt slipped and fell partially in.  Thankfully, there was a person standing close to him at the time and grabbed the camera bag, preventing our new camera from getting wet.  (yea, I know... priorities!)  Matt was fine and ended up changing into his water shoes, taking each remaining stream crossing head on.  Once across the stream, sometimes it can be hard to find the path since there are no trail blazers.  One time we ended up on the wrong path... we were on the bottom near the stream and there were some people towering above us.  So we had to back track before continuing on.  Eventually, we noticed some "markers," such a pink flag tied on a branch or a rusty tin can, that helped to mark the trail path on the other side of the river.  Another tough part was areas where water flowed down slightly rocky cliffs.  One of those things, where when dry, it wouldn't be so bad, but with the water, you really didn't want to slip!

Sweet mountain apples

     Other things to look forward to are the mountain apples!  While I wouldn't dare try to eat one, but the ripe ones on the ground just smell so sweet and delicious.  The nice part is that there aren't excessive bugs flying round them either, so you could enjoy the sweetness of the apples as you are hiking through.

Hanakapi'ai Falls

    Finally, we came to a clearing on the river where we could see our goal, Hanakapi'ai Falls.  It was so close, yet still a little ways away.  A few pictures later, we hurried (as much as we could) along the path until we reach the falls.  There Hanakapi'ai falls stood a towering 410 ft above us with mountain cliffs surrounding the valley.  At the base of the falls was a nice swimming hole where people took a dip after their hike.  It looked like you could climb to a small path along the wall of the falls, but I'm not sure if you can go behind the waterfall.  We found some nice boulders to rest on and enjoy the remainder of our lunch.  The valley was tranquil and lush.  Definitely worth the muddy 2-mile hike there (this was about a 2-hr hike).
    On the way back to the beach, the trail wasn't so bad and seem to go quickly.  It helped that the muddy areas had dried a little.  Back at the beach we visited some of the sea caves and enjoyed watching the sun hover lower in the sky.  We let our feet soak in the water a bit, but didn't go in the ocean.  We were told the rip currents at this beach can be very dangerous!  Before the sun set too much, we headed back onto the trail.  I would not want to get caught hiking down the cliff in the dark!  The hike up from the beach was very tiring, especially already hiking 6-miles.  We sat at the outlooks and enjoyed more of the sunset and the coastline before we got back to the parking lot.  An 8-mile hike in under 7-hrs, including lunch breaks.  We were very proud of our accomplishment that day and enjoyed the rest of the sunset near our Princeville resort.
     It was this hike that inspired me to start my blog.  I needed some way to capture the experience I had today--the wind blowing in my hair, the smell of spearmint and ripe mountain apples in the air and the beauty of the Na Pali coast.  So pardon my wordiness, but there was so much I wanted to capture on this posting.  Thus far, Hawaii has been such a magical place to spend our honeymoon.

For more information:  http://www.hawaiiweb.com/kauai/html/sites/hanakapiai_falls.html